Most travelers think they have truly conquered the island of Bohol once they have snapped a photo of the Chocolate Hills and seen a tiny tarsier clinging to a branch in the forest.
But if you are like me, and you prefer the rhythmic vibration of a motorcycle under your seat and the smell of the ocean mixing with mountain air, you know that the real treasure is often hidden in the rugged and high-altitude curves of the eastern coast.
There is a specific kind of freedom that comes with cruising through the sleepy towns of Guindulman, Anda, and Alicia where the air is thinner and the views are wide enough to heal even the most tired and stressed mind.
Do you have the courage to skip the typical tourist loop and find out where the locals go when they want to feel completely alive and free?
The Panoramic Heights of Book ID in Guindulman
I remember pulling over my bike at the “BUK-ID” view deck just as the afternoon sun began to dip behind the sharp peaks of the mountains and the sky turned into a beautiful gradient of orange and purple. This place is located on a flat plateau in the town of Guindulman and it offers a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of the deep blue bay and the surrounding emerald hills that seem to go on forever.
I could feel the cool breeze hitting my face as I stood there with my camera and realized that this incredible view was absolutely free for anyone willing to make the climb and spend a moment in silence.
The entire path from the bottom is paved and equipped with sturdy handrails which makes the ascent very safe even for those who are not seasoned mountain hikers or professional athletes. You can see the vastness of Guindulman Bay from this summit and the air remains crisp and refreshing even during the hottest months of the year when the rest of the island is baking in the tropical heat.
It is the perfect spot to reset your perspective and check your gear before the road gets a little more challenging and dusty further east.
The Stampa and the Rolling Green of Kabantian Hills
Just fifteen minutes away from the town proper you will find the Kabantian Hills which the local people affectionately call “The Stampa” because of its unique and memorable shape. These rolling green landscapes look exactly like a tropical version of the Scottish Highlands and they are a dream come true for any photography enthusiast looking for that perfect shot of nature in its rawest form.
I could smell the scent of fresh grass and the damp earth as I carefully navigated the loose gravel sections of the road on my motorcycle while the wind whistled through my helmet.
For a symbolic entrance fee of only twenty pesos you get access to a hidden paradise that makes you feel like you are standing at the very edge of the world. There are three new viewing huts at different stations where you can rest your tired legs and wait for the sunset to turn the horizon into a masterpiece of natural colors.
A Morning Feast of Puto Maya and Sikwati
Before I continued my journey toward the higher hills of the interior I had to stop at the local public market for a breakfast that tastes like a warm hug from a grandmother. I sat on a small wooden bench in a busy carinderia and ordered a plate of Puto Maya and a steaming cup of native Sikwati that was whisked by hand until it was perfectly frothy. The smell of the spicy ginger in the glutinous rice mixed with the rich and bitter aroma of the dark chocolate was enough to wake up every one of my senses after a cold morning ride.
“Lami kaayo,” I told the elderly woman serving me as the sweetness of the ripe yellow mangoes balanced the deep complexity of the hot chocolate in a way that words can hardly describe.
This simple and traditional meal is the high-energy fuel every rider needs before tackling the winding roads and the rocky trails that lead deeper into the heart of the province.
The Emerald Wonders of Candijay and the Rice Terraces
As I rode toward the town of Candijay the landscape began to shift from open rolling hills into vibrant green amphitheaters of rice that look like they were carved by the hands of giants. The Lantay and Cadapdapan Rice Terraces are a masterpiece of local engineering and agricultural beauty that will make you forget about the long hours you spent on the motorcycle saddle.
I felt the warmth of the sun on my arms and the vibration of the engine through the handlebars as I navigated the rocky and sandy roads that lead to these hidden emerald steps.
You can even stay overnight at a small room in Lantay for a very reasonable price if you want to wake up to the sight of the morning mist hanging like a curtain over the terraces. It is a world-class sight that easily rivals the more famous terraces in the northern parts of the country but without the massive crowds of tourists and the constant noise of the city.
From the White Sands of Anda to the Peaks of Alicia
A quick detour to Quinale Beach in the town of Anda is mandatory if you want to feel the finest and softest white sand between your toes after a long day of riding.
The sand here is so creamy and white that it feels like walking on high-quality flour and the water is as clear and blue as a bottle of expensive distilled gin.
After the beach, I headed toward the Alicia Panoramic Park for the ultimate climax of this motorcycling journey through the rugged heart of the eastern part of the island. These are the famous Binabaje Hills, which people often call the Microsoft Windows hills because they are so vibrantly green and perfectly round and smooth.
The hike to the top is quite steep and it takes about an hour or two depending on your pace but the absolute silence at the peak is something that stays in your heart forever.
I stood at the summit and watched the wind move through the tall cogon grass like waves in a vast green ocean under the afternoon sun. It is a place of deep and ancient peace where the only sound you can hear is the whistling of the mountain breeze and the distant call of a wild bird in the valley below.
You eventually realize that the best things in life are not the ones with the biggest price tags or the loudest labels but the ones that make your soul feel light and your spirit feel completely free.
